The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the study and professional practice of the history of dress, textiles, and accessories of all cultures and regions of the world, from before classical antiquity to the present day.

New Research in Dress History Conference

19-20 August 2020 in Gothenburg, Sweden

The Association of Dress Historians is delighted to announce its annual New Research in Dress History Conference.


The conference will be held on 18-21 August 2020 in Gothenburg, Sweden, in collaboration with The Röhsska Museum of Design and Craft, Gothenburg University, The Museum of Gothenburg, and The School of Fashion and Stage Costume in Gothenburg, Sweden.


Please click here to read the full conference programme, which includes all conference event dates and details.


Conference tickets are available at


Conference ticket prices start at £25 (per day) and include coffee and networking breaks, lunch, and access to a wide range of paper presentations. Tickets must be purchased online before the conference.


Please join us for an exciting day of research in dress history!


Please join The Association of Dress Historians twitter conversation @DressHistorians, and tweet about our 18-21 August 2020 New Research conference in Gothenburg, Sweden with hashtag #ADHNewResearch2020.


The following 80 papers will be presented over two concurrent panels across two days:

Women’s Garments of the Swedish Fashion Label, Henr. Ahlberg, Göteborg, in the Collection of The Museum of Gothenburg, 1840-1919

Anna Adrian

Museum of Gothenburg, Gothenburg, Sweden



Dressing Disability: The Function and Adaptability of Dress in the Case of the Physical Impairment and Disfigurement of Frida Kahlo (1907-1954)

Sophie Anagnostopoulou

University of Glasgow, Glasgow, Scotland



The Consumption of Cotton in Scandinavia before 1700

Eva I. Andersson

University of Gothenburg, Gothenburg, Sweden



Management and Re-use of Fabric and Decorative Elements in Western European Dress, 1540-1630

Cecilia Aneer

Uppsala University, Uppsala, Sweden



A Paradise for Imposters? Clothes as Social Markers in Early Baroque Rome, 1590-1623

Camilla Annerfeldt

European University Institute, Florence, Italy



Grandeur and Garters: A Case Study of a Pair of Garters with Vanbuchel Springs, circa 1820

Juliet Ashdown

Independent Scholar, London, England



The Ludic and the Populuxe: Eighteenth Century Men’s Fashion and Textiles in the Gentling Collection at the Texas Fashion Collection

Annette Becker

University of North Texas, Denton, Texas, United States



Examining the Alaskan Sealskin Industry through International Government Policy, Conservation Plans, and Fashion Trends

Laurie Anne Brewer

Rhode Island School of Design, Providence, Rhode Island, United States



The Cloth Collective: Investigating Textiles, Garments, and Creative Processes, 1983-1987

Helena Britt

Glasgow School of Art, Glasgow, Scotland



The Depiction of Androgynous Fashion and Cross-Dressing in 1920s Modernist Novels

Jennifer Cameron

University of Hertfordshire, Hatfield, England



The Intentionality of the Architecture and Artistic Details of Indigenous Vietnamese Dress

Jill Carey

Lasell University, Newton, Massachusetts, United States



Bobbin-Made Trimmings of Gold and Silver in Swedish Collections, 1640-1660

Lena Dahrén

Uppsala University, Uppsala, Sweden



Picturesque Arcadia or Essential National Identity? The Impact of Wearing Welsh Costume on the Awareness of Welsh History and Culture

Gillian Davies

Savannah College of Art and Design, Savannah, Georgia, United States



Fashion’s Fantastic Beasts: Fears, Anxieties, and Uncanny Horrors Depicted in the Works of Thierry Mugler, Alexander McQueen, Martin Margiela, and Rei Kawakubo, 1990-2005

Olga Dritsopoulou

The Victoria and Albert/Royal College of Art, London, England



Ritual Protection of Households? Case Studies of Garments Deliberately Concealed within Buildings

Dinah Eastop

University of Southampton, Southampton, England


How Clothing became Political: Fashion in Iran after the 1979 Islamic Revolution

Rezvan Farsijani

Sorbonne University, Paris, France


Fifteenth Century Costume of Elite Children Buried at Pampa la Cruz, Perú

Arabel Fernández

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, New York, United States


Gabriel Prieto

National University of Trujillo, Trujillo, Perú


Andres Shiguekawa

Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, Lima, Perú



Versatile for Victory: The Representation and Reality of Man-Made Textiles, 1930-1955

Trish FitzSimons

Griffith University, Queensland, Australia


Madelyn Shaw

Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC, United States



Czech and Slovak Folk Dress Worn in Czechoslovakia and by Immigrants to the United States

Thomas P. Gates

Kent State University, Kent, Ohio, United States



The Transformation of Uzbek National Dress for Women

Yulduz Gaybullaeva

National University of Uzbekistan, Tashkent, Uzbekistan



The Rise and Fall of Carlsviks Textile Factory in Stockholm, Sweden, 1857-1871

Inga Lena Ångström Grandien

Independent Scholar, Stockholm, Sweden



The World in the Background: Creating Historical Costumes for Non-Speaking Actors in Film and Television

Diana Haberstick

University of North Carolina School of the Arts, Winston-Salem, North Carolina, United States



How to Dress a Female King: The Wardrobe and Sartorial Politics of Queen Christina of Sweden (1626-1689)

Julia Holm

Uppsala University, Uppsala, Sweden



A Veil of Propaganda, Silence, or Lack of Information? The Reflection of European Fashion Design in Soviet Media, 1970-1989

Elena Ilicheva

Independent Scholar, Malmö, Sweden



Her Story: Sculptured Dressmaking as an Embodiment of Identity and Time

Maud Karlsson

Independent Scholar, Uppsala, Sweden



Costume and Performance in the Nineteenth Century Jamaican Slave Masquerade, Known as Jonkonnu

Kenisha Kelly

Vassar College, Poughkeepsie, New York, United States



Clothes Make the Woman: Marie-Jeanne Bertin and Parisian Fashion Merchants, 1770–1813

Zara Kesterton

University of Cambridge, Cambridge, England



Upcycling by Pleating: Strategies for Sustainable Fashion in 2020

Josefin Kilner

Röhsska Museum of Design and Craft, Gothenburg, Sweden



Diadem and Identity: A Study of the Pearl and Cameo Headpiece of Empress Joséphine (1763-1814)

Kristina af Klinteberg

Independent Scholar, Lund, Sweden



From Gusset Patches to Eight-Gore Hats: A 1930s Case Study of the British Needlework Manual, The Art of Needlecraft

Anna König

Arts University Bournemouth, Bournemouth, England



Ancient Greek Clothing as a Symbol of Gender and Class Distinction, 800-323 BC

Sofia Lampropoulou

Stockholm University, Stockholm, Sweden



Continuity and Change: Roman Clothing and Textiles in Late Antiquity, circa 200-700 AD

Lena Larsson Lovén

University of Gothenburg, Gothenburg, Sweden



Red Russians: Analysing Court Dress Regulations Through Comparing Similar Late Nineteenth Century Imperial Russian Court Gowns

E. Emily Mackey

John Wiley & Sons, Toronto, Ontario, Canada



Slow Seeing and Fast Forensics: The Usefulness of Radiocarbon Dating Early Modern Materials, 1450-1650

Jane Malcolm-Davies

The Tudor Tailor, Godalming, Surrey, England



Treasures from the Orient: The Wardrobe Inventories of Catherine Jagiellon, Duchess of Finland, 1562-1563

Nina Manninen

University of Turku, Turku, Finland



Rural Women’s Costume Discovered in Siksälä Cemetery in Southern Estonia, 1250-1450

Ave Matsin

University of Tartu, Tartu, Estonia



Shaping Toronto: Corsets in the Queen City, 1871-1914

Alanna McKnight

Ryerson University, Toronto, Ontario, Canada



Fragments of a French Imperial Wardrobe: Creating Meaning from the Surviving Garments of Empress Eugénie (1826-1920)

Alison McQueen

McMaster University, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada



Tradition and Internationalisation: The Portrayal of Spanish Style in Fashion Magazines, 1945-1959

Dana Moreno

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisbon, Portugal



Pockets, Pinafores, and Practical Hats: The Impact of War on Women’s Dress, 1914-1918

Viv Newman

Independent Scholar, Chelmsford, England



Modern Fashion in Italy: Surviving Garments from the Renaissance Courts, 1450-1570

Bruna Niccoli

University of Pisa, Pisa, Italy



Skirt Pleats and Fashion Plates: Understanding a Canadian Regency Style Day Dress Using Historical and Scientific Research

Vanessa Nicholas

York University, Toronto, Ontario, Canada


Lorna Rowley

Independent Scholar, Donegal, Ireland



Fashion, Luxury, Credit, and Trust in Sweden, 1780-1820

Klas Nyberg

Stockholm University, Stockholm, Sweden



A Most Fine Sett of Gloves: The Use of Funerary Accessories in Bristol, England, 1775-1825

Daniel O’Brien

University of Bath, Bath, Somerset, England



The Unsolved Mystery of the Moonlight Dress: A Case Study of the 1900 Moonlight Glass Cloth Dress at New Brunswick Museum in Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada

Laura Oland

New Brunswick Museum, Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada



Clothing a Society: The Costumes of the Palio di Legnano, the Annual Medieval Re-enactment and Parade in Legnano, Milan, Italy

Alessio Francesco Palmieri-Marinoni

University of Sussex, Brighton, England



Little Willie’s Sewing Buttons: The Mother-of-Pearl Button Industry in Muscatine, Iowa, United States

Jade Papa

Thomas Jefferson University, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States



The Absent-Present Body: Recovering the Fat Body in the Fashion Archive

Lauren Downing Peters

Columbia College, Chicago, Illinois, United States



Portrait of a Young Athenian Lady: Artistic Clothing from the Wardrobe of Tasoula Lantsidi-Dounta (1904-1987)

Myrsini Pichou

Independent Scholar, Athens, Greece



Dressing à la Portugaise in the House of Savoy: Sartorial Otherness in the Wardrobe of Beatrice of Portugal (1504-1538)

Carla Alferes Pinto

Universidade Nova, Lisbon, Portugal



I Like Ike: Fashion as Branding in the 1952 and 1956 U.S. Presidential Campaigns of Dwight D. Eisenhower (1890-1969)

Carson Poplin

Independent Scholar, New York, New York, United States



Master Dyers to the World? The Legacy of Indian Religious Textiles, 1875-2015

Jennifer Pronesti

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, New York, United States



Aegean Headdresses in Bronze Age Civilizations, 3200BC-1100BC

Betty Ramé

Pantheon-Sorbonne University, Paris, France



Dressed for Eternal Rest: The Burial Clothes of Bishop Peder Winstrup (1605-1679)

Pernilla Rasmussen

Lund University, Lund, Sweden



Unsteady Steps: A History of Women’s Gait Through Their Shoes

Saga Esedín Rojo

Complutense University, Madrid, Spain



“Are We Really Going to Swim, Or Merely Decorate the Sands?” The Making, Wearing, and Leisure of Homemade Beachwear in Interwar England

Emmy Sale

University of Brighton, Brighton, England



Dressed for War: The Metamorphosis of the Military Skirt

Rachel Gets Salomon

Israel Institute of Technology, Haifa, Israel



From Tokyo to New York: The Transnational Fashion Influences of Hanae Mori, 1965-1976

Ayaka Sano

New York University, New York, New York, United States



Dressy Sister Acts: The Sartorial Fabric of American Close-Harmony Singing Trios, 1930-1959

Carole Schinck

Independent Scholar, Montréal, Québec, Canada



Rudolf Virchow in Berlin, 1889-1904: Traditional Dress and Its Political Role in the Nation Building Process of Imperial Germany

Frederun Scholz

Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, New York, United States



Unique Costume Remains from the 1628 Swedish Warship, Vasa

Anna Silwerulv

Vasa Museum, Stockholm, Sweden



Silhouette, Fabric, and Embellishment: The Evolution of the Indian Sari Blouse, 1950-2010

Ruby Kashyap Sood

National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, India


Dress and Cross-Cultural Exchange in Ancient South Italy, 500 BC – 27 BC

Hayley Stoneham

La Trobe University, Melbourne, Australia



More than Just a Pretty Dress: The Political Uses of the Norwegian Bunad

Solveig Strand

Norwegian Institute of Bunad and Folk Costume, Fagernes, Norway



Parisian Haute Couture at the Luxury Department Store, Nordiska Kompaniet, in Stockholm, Sweden, 1902-1966

Susanna Strömquist

Nordic Museum, Stockholm, Sweden



Thinking Cap: The Ice Age Hat, the Origins of Culture, and the Creative Explosion Period, 100,000 BC– 40,000 BC

Drake Stutesman

New York University, New York, United States



From Feed Sacks to Dresses: Upcycling Consumer Goods Packaging in the United States, 1929-1939

Denise H. Sutton

New York City College of Technology, Brooklyn, New York, United States



Chinese Influences in Swedish Fashion, 1850-1930

Helen Persson Swain

Nordiska Museet, Stockholm, Sweden



Fashioning Global Dominance: Eighteenth Century Dress, Influence, and Colonial Wealth

Emily Taylor

National Museums Scotland, Edinburgh, Scotland



Fashion and Couture in Denmark, 1945-1960

Kirsten Toftegaard

Designmuseum Danmark, Copenhagen, Denmark



From Paper Patterns to Patterns on Fabric: Sewing Patterns in Sweden, 1881-1981

Gunilla Törnvall

Lund University, Lund, Sweden



Fashion’s Foundations: Christian Dior-Designed Lingerie and Foundation Garments Made in England, 1957-1959

Emma Treleaven

Charles Dickens Museum, London, England



Control through Cloth: Scottish Linen and Clothing Enslaved People in the Eighteenth Century

Sally Tuckett

University of Glasgow, Glasgow, Scotland



The Fashionable Construction of a Nobleman: Portraiture Analysis of the Foreign Minister of Denmark-Norway, Andreas Peter Bernstorff (1735-1797)

Kjerstin Vedel

University of Southern Denmark, Odense, Denmark



Fashion and Credit in Pre-Revolutionary France, 1778-1789

Paula von Wachenfeldt

Stockholm University, Stockholm, Sweden



Theatre de la Mode: 1940s French Haute Couture in the Collection of the Maryhill Museum of Art in Goldendale, Washington, United States

Susan House Wade

Newcomb Museum, Tulane University, New Orleans, Louisiana, United States



Lace and Likeness: Aspects of the Representation of Lace in the Portrait of Hannah Louise, Mrs William Clabburn, Painted by Frederick Sandys in 1860

Beth Walsh

University of East Anglia, Norwich, England



Old Lace and Puffed Sleeves: New Light on Swedish Court Dress, from its Introduction in 1778 to its Re-Introduction in 1988

Niklas Wellbäck

The Royal Armoury, Stockholm, Sweden



Mardi Gras Dress in Rural Louisiana: An Enduring Tradition of Disguise and Parody

Virginia Schreffler Wimberley

University of Alabama, Tuscaloosa, Alabama, United States



 The Storrar Coverlet: Scandinavian-Scottish Exchange, circa 1726

Helen Wyld

National Museums Scotland, Edinburgh, Scotland


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The Association of Dress Historians (ADH)
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